Without a doubt, this was one of the best nights sleep I had in Madeira. I slept very well, the weather was pleasant, not too cold, not too hot. I woke up around 8am, next to Pico Fernandes, I had my breakfast, some biscuits, juice, water and bread.
On this day I would have one of the most incredible experiences of my entire stay in Madeira. I saw the largest and most beautiful waterfall in Portugal, if not in Europe, the so-called Cascata do Risco, and I would end the day with a meal of pasta carbonara in a little shop in the middle of the forest, including camping in Rabaçal.
Towards Levada do Alecrim
I woke up and went down to Ribeira do Lajeado, I went to record some videos, take photos, enjoy a little of that view and say goodbye to that place. Several people passed by towards Pico Fernandes, it is one of the highest points in that area, with a privileged view of the region. Of the people passing by, some are always curious to know if I had spent the night there and end up asking if I had camped there, what it was like to spend the night, they ask how it was, where I’m from, this situation has always happened all over the world. route I took on the island, mainly because I was carrying a large camping backpack, and the positive side: meeting people spontaneously.
I headed to PR6.2 – Levada do Alecrim towards Pico do Vento, but I had no idea of the natural beauty I would find ahead. This is a region full of water, like a spring. Ribeira do Lajeado runs alongside Levada do Alecrim forming several waterfalls. Along the way you can see many tourists walking this trail and taking photos. At a certain point the trail started to get closer to the river, until there was a crossing to cross to the other side. It is interesting that several wells are formed with a good depth, which allows swimming and diving.
Break for lunch
Almost 45 minutes had passed on the trail when I decided to take a lunch break at Poço Bona Beja, and this time it was bread with sardines and banana, just like the kind Dona Eduarda gave me in São Vicente. There were several people stopping to eat there, it looks like a meeting point, it’s right at the crossing of Ribeira do Lajeado and Levada do Alecrim. There were many people there, some bathing in the well, others sitting on the rocks eating something, others just relaxing and enjoying nature.
The Most Beautiful Waterfall in Madeira
At approximately 850 meters above sea level, I followed the path, crossed the trail towards PR6.2, now officially I was on Levada do Alecrim. Walking for about 35 minutes, I arrive at a fork, where it is possible to continue straight along Levada do Alecrim or go down to the right towards PR6.1 – Levada do Risco. I followed to the right, this time going down little by little for about 15 minutes, until I reached another fork. This time, go right, there will be signs to follow to Cascata do Risco or Lagoa do Vento.
Get ready to see one of the most beautiful scenes of your entire life. It is incredibly beautiful and perfect, satisfying, and brings an unparalleled peace. Walking further down for about 10 minutes, through very steep and difficult to walk steps, you will come out in front of the Risco Cascade.
The most beautiful waterfall on Madeira Island, Cascata do Risco, located in the municipality of Calheta. A beautiful waterfall over 100 meters high, which comes from Lagoa do Vento, a lagoon with cold waters, but of great beauty. Lagoa do Vento originates from the waters of Ribeira do Lajeado that fall from the top of a cliff and continue further ahead, the Cascata do Risco. I was amazed by so much beauty of that place, I have never seen anything like it in my entire life. I went to take some photos, but immediately left the camera recording and went to take a shower in that water. It was very cold, icy, but the feeling of cold only existed for the first few seconds when diving, then it passed.
The feeling I had was of self-satisfaction for having walked so far to get to this place, living this experience through my own effort and knowing that anyone is also capable of doing this, of living these experiences, but many of them don’t even have the courage to leave. from their homes, even though they have the financial means to do something similar.
That’s when I thought it’s not that expensive, in fact it’s possible and affordable for everyone, a camping tent, plane tickets, a little money to eat and a lot of willpower to walk, that’s what you need.
Just below Lagoa do Vento there is another even bigger waterfall, called Cascata do Risco, with a stunning view. From Lagoa do Vento, it is possible to walk along the rocks and see the waterfall, it is also possible to see some people down there, who will see the waterfall from PR6.1 – Levada do Risco.
I flew the drone, took countless photos, I’ll leave some here so you can appreciate the beauty of this place and feel inspired to visit Madeira one day.
The Laurissilva Forest
Pay attention to the vegetation, this area is part of the Madeira Laurissilva Special Protection Zone and the Madeira Central Mountain Massif Special Conservation Zone, and for those who don’t know, the Laurissilva forest is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site, it won this title in 1999.This recognition is due to its unique ecological importance, the diversity of plant and animal species it houses, as well as its contribution to the conservation of global biodiversity.
Laurissilva is a humid subtropical forest found in regions with an oceanic climate, characterized by lush and diverse vegetation. This type of forest is especially found on some Atlantic islands, such as Madeira and the Azores.
This subtropical forest is known for the presence of laurels dating back to the Tertiary and which, due to its geographic isolation, has preserved many characteristics of ancient forests. The Madeira Laurissilva is also crucial for the conservation of several endemic species. It is important to note that the Laurissilva in the Azores is not included in the UNESCO World Heritage list.
Towards Rabaçal
After bathing in the cold waters of Lagoa do Vento, several photos and videos, I headed towards Rabaçal. It was great “luck” to find this place because I was already low on food, there were only some bread, sardines and nothing else. From Lagoa do Vento to Rabaçal it is approximately 1.6km, around 60 meters of elevation gain, it is an easy route to do.
Coming from the trails, you will pass a road and go down some stairs. On the right side you can see a lawn, the place where I would spend the next night. Further ahead you will find the Rabaçal restaurant. I arrived at the Rabaçal restaurant at 5pm, I was lucky to get there on time, as the restaurant closes at 6pm. This restaurant has several types of dishes, drinks, cakes and typical foods. It’s a little expensive, but it was worth it as I was in the middle of the forest, far from any market to buy cheaper food.
Camping in Rabaçal
I had a carbonara with a drink and paid €17 in total. I ordered some more sweets and walnut cake, which also cost me around €10. I also put the camera, drone and power banks to charge and went back to the camping area to set up my tent and spend my penultimate night in Madeira. I had a very good, peaceful night. There was a barbecue area nearby, with a tap and barbecue. I washed my hands, filled the water bottles and went back to the tent to sleep.
In the Next Chapter
In the next chapter I get closer and closer to the end of this expedition in Madeira. I wake up early to record some videos at Lagoa do Vento and return for breakfast at the Rabaçal shop. Afterwards, I go to Cascata do Risco to take some more photos and discover an incredible place on the island that I want to come back to visit more often. I continue along the PR6 – Levada das 25 Fontes, one of the most beautiful levadas I’ve seen, arriving at the Cascata das 25 Fontes, a magical place with unique beauty. Straight ahead I come across one of the most difficult stretches on the whole island, always uphill, from 900 metres to 1330 metres, passing through PR13 – Vereda do Fanal and following the ER209 towards the Fanal forest, where I would spend my last night.